The best Friday night I have ever spent was on a
Tall Ship, strapped to the main mast during a force 11 gale in the pitch black, with lightning and crashing thunder which was drowned out by the waves washing over me and threatening to wash me off deck.
That was not last Friday night.
Last shabbat was therefore my second one on a boat.
Yes, I do still live in the Old City of Jerusalem, and no, the sem have not taken us out exploring the land for a little while. Where on earth did all this boat rubbish come from then?
One of the girls who came this year has grandparents who, several years ago, traded in living in a house for living on a boat, and ever since they've been sailing around the world, staying for weeks in the Bahamas, going round the Mediterranean, and so eventually coming round to Israel to come and visit their granddaughter.
I'm friends with this girl, she's very nice and I met her last year when she was thinking of coming here, so when she wanted to invite people to spend shabbat on her grandparents' boat I was one of the lucky few. There were 10 of us. Personally I was still getting over the 'Your grandparents have a boat?! And it can fit 12 people?!' bit. I'm really not used to this kind of thing.
The only problem was that the kitchen on the boat wasn't kosher. This meant that we couldn't eat any of their food, or use any of their utensils, so we had to bring everything ourselves. We were going to just buy pre-cooked food and double wrap it to put in the oven, but it felt a bit sad to just have prepared food, so I offered my services.
So, that Friday I made my way down to catch the shared taxi carrying an enormous wok, noodles, shitaki mushrooms, soy sauce, beansprouts and cabbage and a box of chicken quietly marinating in my backpack. A lot of the girls offered to carry the wok, not because I was ridiculously overloaded and looked like a tortoise but mainly because it looked cool and slightly dangerous. I felt much safer than usual walking through the streets wielding a wok.
The boat itself was docked in Hertzelia, not far from Tel Aviv. It's very touristy, and the marina was awash with people from all over the place. The guy in the boat just across the way from us was from Turkey. When I asked him if he was going to go back for the eclipse in March, he said he'd probably have to be on duty because around the time of the eclipses there are usually more storms, and he does search and rescue.
The grandparents are American, and as we came up to their boat, there was a little American flag flying proudly off the back in amongst potted geraniums and petunias. I knew they'd been docked for several months, but I couldn't help wondering what happened to the plants when there was a storm. "We bring the plants in when the weather gets bad," the grandmother said without my having to ask, "They don't really like the saltwater very much anyway."
There was hardly any time to explore before we had to prepare everything and get ready for shabbat. The boat was large, maybe 30-35 foot long, and so I dropped off my stuff in the lounge room upstairs and went down into the little galley kitchen. It was very nice, and it would have been nicer had we been able to use the stuff, but instead I got out the wok and began to chop up the garlic and onions and cabbage using the knife that we'd bought and dipped into the ocean a few minutes before.
I'd already cut the chicken the night before. To be honest, I was a little nervous of it. Being a vegetarian for 19 years, I'd never cooked the stuff before and its malleable, slightly translucent appearance did nothing to reassure me. Covered in sauce, I threw them into the hot oil with the garlic and onions and saw them turn a satisfying brown colour, using the knife to stir with. Sadly, my first thought was "Hey, cool, that's the protein in the meat denaturing due to the heat breaking down the structure of the protein molecule!" Oh dear...
I was one of the people sleeping in the lounge. The boat itself was very beautiful, compact and neat and lined with wood. All of us sat in the lounge and had the Friday night meal after we'd prayed on the deck.
The neighbors opened their windows so that they could hear us singing, and we sang late into the night. For some reason, a few of the girls fought over who was going to sit next to me at dinner: "I want to sit next to Tilla!" "Fine, but I get to sleep in the room with her then!". I have no idea why, I mean, I'm not that exciting...Finally, we cleared up and folded away the table, then we slept on the couches while the other girls went down to the beds.
When I woke up again, it was Wednesday.
Ok, maybe it wasn't but that was a convenient way of not telling the rest of the story. Basically we hung out on the boat, it was very cool, it rocked from side to side which made everyone except me feel a little sick, and then when it was dark we went out for dinner, then back home in the shared taxi (with the wok). The end.
On Wednesday however, all us second years had a little shared evening.
We occasionally go to various of our Rabbis' houses in the evening, learn stuff, chat, discuss issues and generally schmooze. On Wednesday evening we went to Rav L's house, one of my favourite rabbis. He takes the Saul and David class I like, he does our touring class of various parts of Jerusalem, and last year I took his 'tannaitic personalities' class which is brilliant in and of itself, but is also fun because at the end he gets out his guitar and we all sing.
Yes, yes, I know it sounds very cutesy and stupid and brainwashed, but he has a wonderful voice and it isn't at all happy clappy, it's just beautiful and relaxing.
The funny thing was, once we got there and sat down, we mainly ended up talking about drug use amongst American high-schoolers and why we thought it was so prevalent, because his wife is taking a sabbatical year and is writing a paper on such things. Bizarre.
Thursday, and it was Thanksgiving. Or wasn't. I have never celebrated Thanksgiving in my life, for the very good reason that I'm English (for all intents and purposes) and so have little to do with Pilgrim Fathers, Turkeys or even with reservations. For the 90 or so Americans in sem though, it was a blow. They wanted to celebrate it, but were specifically forbidden to do so by Rav M because they're not in America anymore, and so there's no reason to be celebrating it in Israel.
I got to celebrate it though, in a roundabout way....
For those of you who manage to wade through my previous posts, you may recall that I'd joined the SCA, the Society for Creative Anachronism, or the mediaeval re-enactment society, with my friend Bracha. Well, on Thursday they held a party in the Old City. It was the 'Shire Birthday', but basically it was an excuse to have a party on Thanksgiving in a country that doesn't celebrate it. I was excited though, because I'd never been to something like that before, or even anything as openly geeky.
One of the problems was that I didn't have any mediaeval clothes.
I considered briefly trying to go to a museum and surreptitiously walking out dressed in one of the costumes, but then decided that rather defeated the whole 'surreptitious' part. We soon found out however, that we could rent garb there, so we didn't need to worry. Also, as we were students AND we'd be missing large chunks of the evening to go back to sem and study, we only needed to pay half price.
Another interesting point was that even though it was in the Old City we had no idea where it was actually being held. As the time got closer and we got more detailed instructions, we knew the street name but had no idea where that meant...street names tend to get lost amongst all the tiny alleyways, and you just know everything as 'that one there, just past <insert landmark here>'. It eventually turned out that it was somewhere in the Arab quarter.
Come Thursday, just returned from the archaeological dig and still muddy, we set off for where we presumed it was. Twisting and turning, we finally got to the road, but they'd just said to call them, then they'd escort us the rest of the way. We tried to call, but none of them had any reception...we wandered back the way we came. Suddenly I spotted two guys sitting down, obviously looking like they were waiting for something.
"Bracha, do you think those guys...?"
"I dunno, they looked pretty ordinary to me when we first passed them."
We got closer, and I waved. The first one got up. He was wearing a blue tunic with puffed sleeves, culottes, and interesting boots. He also had long hair that he'd tied back into a ponytail.
"Ordinary, huh? I think our 'ordinary threshold' is a bit skewed."
They got up and introduced themselves, and then we made our way back down the way we'd come. We were still in modern clothes, but coming up to meet us we saw a group of about five people all in full garb. It felt SO STRANGE!
Our mediaeval 'escort' took us all the way down and through twisting alleys until we reached a set of doors that led into a small stone hall. We got in and were greeted by the guy who'd organised the whole thing and his wife, then her two kids ran up to us, greeted us enthusiastically and then ran off, headdresses flowing in the wind.
Disoriented, I set down my bag with my camera in it and asked if we could try to find things that would make us fit in better.
"Ah, garb, yes, just rummage through the pile on that table there. Here, I'll help you..."
Searching through all the various items of clothing, "No,that'll be too big for you...that's reserved for someone...that's for men, and it wouldn't fit you anyway...ah, this'll probably do the job," he says, pulling out a bodice. Ok. I start to put it on over my shirt, and the two kids run up, one gets out a length of ribbon, and they start to lace me up. An argument breaks out amongst all the guys on how to lace a bodice correctly, meanwhile I'm standing there feeling slightly exposed while the girls do and redo the lacing, thinking "Ok, fine, argue, just don't touch me!". Finally, the girls finish. There's a silence. Everyone's just staring at me.
"Uh, whoa....that really suits you....it fits really well..."
"Um, thanks," I say blushing, then run away to make myself look very busy doing something else.
By the time we were fully kitted up and things were getting going, it was time for us to go back to sem for night seder. One girl had brought her harp, and there were people who played the guitar and the flute.
Reluctantly, we went back to sem (with our escorts) and got some very funny looks. Once in though, the reactions were mixed.
I am known for being a bit...eccentric, so while some people asked me where I'd gone or why I looked mediaeval, one of my rabbi's responses, when asked by one of my excited friends "Have you seen Tilla?!" was "Yes, but I didn't want to say anything. I mean, it's Tilla, I thought it might just be normal."
Two hours later and we were back again in the hall. There was a talk about the hall itself, but we hung out round the back by the tables and got to know people. The end of the evening came, and everyone changed out of their garb into normal clothes, suddenly re-emerging as part of the 21st century as trainers came back on, t-shirts and jackets, looking now just like ordinary people holding funny hats.
Save me a hat guys, I think I want to come back!
Right, that's quite long enough.
I'll just mention that I didn't previously mention the caves that we went to.
The huge impressive ones that looked like a spectacular cathedral carved from limestone.
Caves full of pigeonholes.
And crawling through the caves left behind from the times of the Bar Kochba rebellions against the Romans.
I also didn't mention the Tribe Shabbaton, in which nearly all the English kids out here in Israel got together to try and solve all the problems that Anglo-Jewry faces today. Ironic, seeing as we've all run away for a year (or more)!
As long time readers of Adloyada will know, this blog was started back in 2005 largely to campaign against the then proposed merger of AUT, the union representing the prestigious universities, and NATFHE, the much larger union representing the community colleges and the second rank universities.
I'd been a member of both unions in my time, and could recall with horror the malign and deadend way in which NATFHE was dominated and manipulated by an inbuilt caucus of Trotskyist, Communist and other hard left hacks, whose rule ensured that it was also hopelessly ineffective in its core role of negotiating the pay of its members. A sample of the typical ravings of its former General Secretary, Paul Mackney, the architect of the merger, can be enjoyed in the clip above.
To this day, the pay of community college lecturers remains the lowest of the full time state teaching unions, below that of primary school teachers.
It had a time honoured tradition of passing motions supporting Cuba, China and whatever far left dictatorship its committee apparatchiks wanted to cosy up to (to say nothing of "fraternal visits".
So I knew that if a merger went through, not only would the new union be signed up to supporting the Stop the War Campaign (which NATFHE housed, provided financial support for, and allowed its General Secretary to campaign for), but similar hard left positions-- including a boycott of Israeli academics, which an array of fringe radical academics from some prestigious universities had failed to get approved within AUT in 2005. I played a part in that one; I was a member of the special delegates' conference that threw out the motion.
However, I never managed to get a broader campaign going; the organized Jewish community outsourced its efforts to getting the Engage group leading a campaign which centred round opposing the AUT boycott while leaving the merger to go ahead. Engage, being itself a soft Trotskyist controlled group, in fact supported the merger, even though the most simple arithmetic and a cursory reading of the constitution of the merged union made it clear that NATFHE majorities and NATFHE style caucusing and manipulation were inevitably going to ensure that a boycott type motion would be agreed.
And now, UCU has passed a motion which is widely being called a boycott by the Israeli press, the Jewish Chronicle and blogs like Harry's Place.
I don’t think the motion is in fact a boycott, and i think it’s a political mistake to call it one.
Neither is it McCarthyism--calling it that is part of the mindset of reluctance to ascribe its true origins to the history of the totalitarian left.
What it represents is something much worse–mandatory thought policing and requirements for ritual denunciations and chantings of required political mantras on pain of exclusion.
This is of course the method used by left totalitarian regimes from which UCU, dominated as it is by apparatchiks of the SWP, draws its methods.
It is also seriously misleading to label it simply anti-semitic. There are plenty of loyal Israelis who are not Jews, but who would be outraged by the requirement to denounce their government and agree with UCU’s ritual mantras. There are also some British non-Jewish members of UCU who are made to feel profoundly alienated and threatened by this and other displays of UCU’s intimidationism.
Apart from possible legal action– which may or may not come to pass– one of the most interesting political answers may be to campaign for the adoption of legislation to force unions to ballot members on political actions like these, including a requirement that a majority of the registered membership (not just a majority of those who actually vote in a ballot) must have voted for it.
It would stop union gesture politics like this (including UCU’s financial and logistical support of the Stop the War campaign) in their tracks.
Of course, a requirement like that could only be seen to be legitimate if there were also a requirement on all of us to vote in national and local elections. I’ve been thinking about that as an issue for some time. This denouement with UCU (which was absolutely inevitable once AUT and NATFHE merged) has made me feel that the requirement to vote should be seen as one of the requirements of our democracy. After all, the overwhelming majority of people in this country accept that there may be times when we are required to enlist and fight for our country when it is under attack. A requirement to vote is of the same order, and of course it still offers the possibility of spoiling your ballot paper if you don’t like any of the choices on offer.
But opting out of either taking part in choosing the government and policies of your local area and your country, or your union, if you choose to belong to one, shouldn’t be an option.
Another view, which involves abandoning UCU to the Trotskyists of SWP, and then contemplating even abandoning UK academia altogether, is taken by Shalom Lappin in a beautifully argued post here.
My view, though, goes back to the very first post I put up on the subject. It's all about democracy.